tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8824414406206920112024-03-13T09:59:46.508-07:00Home of the rock climb "Right Wing" in Squamish, BC|| Keep posted for updates, a topo, and beta. || Have an epic or a good day out on Right Wing? Please send me anything relevant for posting.Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-7077967666397528042011-08-17T16:10:00.001-07:002011-08-17T18:20:12.149-07:00Free at Last!!!<div style="text-align: left;">It all went down yesterday. Finally, after five years and a Big E worth of effort, a free ascent of Right Wing. After a ramble up Eagle's Domain, JB, Em, and I lifted our heads. Above lay the dragon, the Filibuster.</div><div>
<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCzA9xkQuVqG-_BP_xGhQxFu0FGZue_sUK7Pzp892pos3wkYwkMbo1R-LiftdA7Mh5Zeou3v9EBi5iuOfCbiAOyYt116UjN0rVFjx3nA7AGnrp7i6jOld13DkGJcgkNVADavA-PYsP30/s1600/RW+1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCzA9xkQuVqG-_BP_xGhQxFu0FGZue_sUK7Pzp892pos3wkYwkMbo1R-LiftdA7Mh5Zeou3v9EBi5iuOfCbiAOyYt116UjN0rVFjx3nA7AGnrp7i6jOld13DkGJcgkNVADavA-PYsP30/s400/RW+1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641967326615186258" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><u>
<br /></u></span></div><div>Em set the tone for the day by leading the 10c bolted face, cranking through the wet finger lock without pulling on the bolt. JB and I knew we too had keep our hands off the draw. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>Next came JB's lead up pitch 4. He found all sorts of rests I hadn't conceived: armbars, stems, backsteps. If had bat-hung or knee-barred, I wouldn't have been surprised. He slayed it.</div><div>
<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-XpUBNThyphenhyphenbDnwA9yuJX5AYND9XDGaJCj2a_tbvWVmu3pWE-tVnVpVGMv4MmRjtx774BwWvsGsTPNTUTjDRHGXgbHGnyr0NOoAKQnqp5cVeJkguzIxytXNEx-rD2kmsFoEO42Of81qoW4/s1600/RW+2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-XpUBNThyphenhyphenbDnwA9yuJX5AYND9XDGaJCj2a_tbvWVmu3pWE-tVnVpVGMv4MmRjtx774BwWvsGsTPNTUTjDRHGXgbHGnyr0NOoAKQnqp5cVeJkguzIxytXNEx-rD2kmsFoEO42Of81qoW4/s400/RW+2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641968013326662978" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></div><div>I was up next. Pitch 5. My nemesis. I rested at the belay for 20 minutes to de-pump and psych up. I rehearsed the crux in my mind again... found my focus, and unclipped from the belay. Quickly, I reached the stem rest before the crux. After entering the crux with my hands mixed up, I downclimbed, re-de-pumped, and re-entered. This time I nailed the crux hand jam, foot bump, finger lock, and hand jam. I laybacked up 5 feet, still in the crux. My foot blew. I yelled to turn the fear to pure power. I drank that up... and cranked through to the so-so rest atop the crux, wiggled in a piece, and continued. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>The next 20m were pure battle. My tick marks and H-marks really helped. Nearing the end, I rested up on a hand jam, then continued laybacking. The crack is all there but recessed behind my left shoulder. After 10 feet, I stopped to place gear. I picked the wrong piece and felt my arms fading. I realized that this was my moment of truth. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>I calmly put the gear back on my harness, breathed deep... and layback for Jesus. Another 10 feet later, I stepped onto the critical foot, a no-hands rest. I yelled into the sun. A raven looked down at me. From there, it was a done-deal. I danced up the final moves, and clipped the chains. Pitch 5. Finally.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>Having already sent pitch 6, JB knew exactly what was coming. He de-pumped then floated it. What a rock star!</div><div>
<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcxjj4RaPqIlhHEvwd5beO8EEjsuoJSiZVIAAZMvFxpX9LZbmEKYvZzmd-2krxO98ZvMjJ0yAUm83bJG77h7QieGMKOCID6hN7QldBJNpDj1F2-vRk_NruxcYpnOlFVUZXJTB3emMGj7A/s1600/RW+3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcxjj4RaPqIlhHEvwd5beO8EEjsuoJSiZVIAAZMvFxpX9LZbmEKYvZzmd-2krxO98ZvMjJ0yAUm83bJG77h7QieGMKOCID6hN7QldBJNpDj1F2-vRk_NruxcYpnOlFVUZXJTB3emMGj7A/s400/RW+3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5641969874619864338" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></div><div>
<br /></div><div>And that's how Right Wing finally allowed me passage. A team free ascent! </div><div> </div></div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-43582008161759021982011-08-15T19:25:00.000-07:002011-08-15T19:31:22.331-07:00Session 4Went for a wander today... rapped in and gave pitch 5 another burn, envisioning what it would be like placing gear, a welling pump in the arms. I ticked all the feet. I never thought I'd do that. But this is projecting. Left a "H" on the face beside blind handjam rests. I can just see myself on lead, pumped, too pumped to stop and place gear, looking up at an "H" on the face 10 feet up... and going "H" or bust. <div>
<br /></div><div>I can TR the pitch clean every time. But stopping to place gear will make it much tougher. I now know where the cruxes are for me, where to rest, where to place gear, and where to punch through. That said, it's still really pumpy. Power endurance!<div>
<br /></div><div>I also fixed up a rap route from Political Ledge to the ground, in 3 raps with a single 60m rope. So the route is pretty low commitment now. Easy to bail if need be.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>JB says tomorrow's the day for the big send.</div></div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-48133526164164572602011-08-14T09:51:00.000-07:002011-08-14T10:11:45.299-07:00Sessions<div style="text-align: left;">Enough is enough with this getting school thing. Maybe the Filibuster is too much for me. Or then again, maybe not. It's time to go to work!</div><div>
<br /></div><div><b>Session 1.</b> JB and I went for another schooling last week. And the Filibuster schooled us again, even with the belay half way up. JB led pitch 4, and went piece-to-piece. Without enough traffic and with warm wet springs and summers of late, the face had lichened in again, making the right foot smears slippery. On my lead up pitch 5, I worked my way up the steep corner to the crux ... tried to get a stance to rest. No dice. Trying to rest made me more tired. From then on, I was gassed. We reached the top of the Filibuster and bailed. Humbled, again. But inspired. </div><div>
<br /></div><div><b>Session 2</b>. Opting to finish the route via the right-hand finger crack variation, we sessioned that pitch on TR. I suspected that the entry moves would be the crux... an arete pinch way over to the right then fighting the barn-door as I move right. But JB unlocked a better way through: stemming higher then using the pinch as a foot-pedal, moving right higher up. For some reason, it's not a barn-door up there. We then rapped into the Filibuster and gave the lichens a quick retroscrub.</div><div>
<br /></div><div><b>Session 3</b>. Jay joined us for more sessions. The plan was a ground up session. But two parties were in line at the base of Eagle's Domain so we hiked around to rap to Political Ledge then sessioned pitches 4-6 on lead. That plan, too, got stymied as a party was coming up Right Wing. We did, however, have time enough to session pitch 6. After each having TRed it clean, JB pulled the rope and led it clean. </div><div>
<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipmTdrI39OXrhdA5-AWw39TngskaGxG9oztbGdEnTR0nyLtsgFXelevjTX9ikZb_Om45GZw_dSGAA8XBuWMkHQEVkstcsFlptYsYwH8lZUahnz3TQ1RwntBBeuKQRecxyNJ-p54rRCpEY/s400/p6.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5640758706080060994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">
<br /></span></div><div>What an amazing pitch!</div><div>
<br /></div><div>Next we rapped in and sessioned pitches 4 and 5 on a rope. For me, it's all about knowing where to rest and where to punch it. Getting the two confused gets me ultra pumped. I think I worked out the rest below the crux. It's 1m lower than where I tried to get it last time. The route is feeling all there...</div><div>
<br /></div><div>The Pipe Dream is to</div><div><ul><li>lead pitch 4 clean</li><li>lead pitch 5 clean</li><li>lead pitch 6 clean</li><li>do a team clean ascent with JB</li><li>lead all pitches clean</li></ul></div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-64356080371806498282011-07-01T19:06:00.000-07:002011-07-01T19:08:47.866-07:00Filibuster now 2 pitchesHaving deliberated the matter for 4 years and watched Right Wing not get enough traffic, I finally pulled the trigger today, literally. I rapped in and reinstalled the bolted belay in the middle of the Filibuster, along with 1 protection bolt just above it to protect the belay. The new belay is where the original belay (that I chopped in 2007) was. There is still no stance. Bringing a belay seat or extra slings to stand in would be smart. So now the Filibuster is <div><ul><li>10b, 20m then 10c, 25m. or</li><li>10d, 55m </li></ul><div>I hope this means more traffic for this outstanding route.</div></div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-53335829443571050532008-07-27T17:39:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:15.367-08:00Third Time Still UnluckyI tried Right Wing for the <span style="font-weight: bold;">third </span>time recently with Sarah. Our Finnish friends, Pauli and Enni, followed close behind us.<br /><br />Finally, I sent Pitch 2, the bolted 10c corner. After balancing up past delicate features, a critical step left into a stem, a wet finger lock layback move, and a dash of commitment awarded me the jug that ends the crux!<br /><br />But then the <span style="font-style: italic;">Filibuster</span> had its way with Sarah and me. Sarah, fresh back from flashing a 12a in Canmore, tried to lead the "just 10d"<span style="font-style: italic;"> Filibuster</span>. Grunting, quivering, pulling, hanging, she got about 20m up before running out of steam and courage, and built a hanging belay at a place where someone had bailed. I took over, with 38 m left to the chains, and a head full of steam. Getting into the chimney proved challenging, with Sarah belaying exactly where I would fall. Once in, the steep handcracks went well... but with much effort. Alas, by the time I had laybacked up another 10m of the corner, I was well out of steam. I went piece to piece the rest of the way to the chains.<br /><br />Sarah then led the 10c/d fingery finale to <span style="font-style: italic;">Godforsaken Land</span>, which didn't go too smoothly either. Like <span style="font-style: italic;">What's Left</span>, the finish to <span style="font-style: italic;">GFL</span> is burly!<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">Here are some photos of Super Enni leading the end of the <span style="font-style: italic;">Filibuster </span>(she pulled on one piece to give a "*" to her onsight) and the end of <span style="font-style: italic;">What's Left</span> (which she did onsight). Also be sure to check out the video of her topping out, gassed. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslRm1nOVC6GOaLS1dLOyZbx5lfyG7flJCspXgaICld6qKwBrme92woW8Vjflcs4zjjZ1pMh7uzFLlfyBwopOvE76i7Z-2aexCKji5lhBuBI9uS1qduGUp9M_a_w2VZ33h55NSL_mtctY/s1600-h/IMG_0143.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslRm1nOVC6GOaLS1dLOyZbx5lfyG7flJCspXgaICld6qKwBrme92woW8Vjflcs4zjjZ1pMh7uzFLlfyBwopOvE76i7Z-2aexCKji5lhBuBI9uS1qduGUp9M_a_w2VZ33h55NSL_mtctY/s400/IMG_0143.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227858547873373010" border="0" /></a>The end of the never-ending <span style="font-style: italic;">Filibuster</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yNgDl4eOmwh20gFLYkrqnig87QfjA15bOwyhFdXGwAQM2M4o4mXtyCkGwi624dhxxDFIT5mBgi5R-idzRsbUIT0E7Q64MMnzxgsiHw8WOkFeHR5oTVIrCyyeX8iFko01CHPOWAfv6uQ/s1600-h/IMG_0149.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yNgDl4eOmwh20gFLYkrqnig87QfjA15bOwyhFdXGwAQM2M4o4mXtyCkGwi624dhxxDFIT5mBgi5R-idzRsbUIT0E7Q64MMnzxgsiHw8WOkFeHR5oTVIrCyyeX8iFko01CHPOWAfv6uQ/s400/IMG_0149.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227858547270858930" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihlK3tXPZP8qvs7L3rJ_tcY27Xeh3noZrJxPFSY7AGo7irMlVgwNsBfA752GtUcp_-w8kmNDEzHCRiH3fKpgVqt7KBB8nyRqw4eYt1aeDaLcub6wdoqgCwXxiAxyK8KwQu-M_MyABzv2E/s1600-h/IMG_0166.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihlK3tXPZP8qvs7L3rJ_tcY27Xeh3noZrJxPFSY7AGo7irMlVgwNsBfA752GtUcp_-w8kmNDEzHCRiH3fKpgVqt7KBB8nyRqw4eYt1aeDaLcub6wdoqgCwXxiAxyK8KwQu-M_MyABzv2E/s400/IMG_0166.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227858550927578050" border="0" /></a>the kneebar, undercling, crux reach move on the well-overhung <span style="font-style: italic;">What's Left</span><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a style="font-style: italic;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYraqyGqEQmWsERoDgooYLwHC87304Vs7vo8KaZCvr7Wha7hfD-qGI0i4-EJxajZxcvt0EGMbFs0hqUCgrIPODdYjF4gOh0Erc8iE9i3p_8zcQgEX1nTBHzO7W3b3ZXtJPRg8yOfAlFAE/s1600-h/IMG_0168.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYraqyGqEQmWsERoDgooYLwHC87304Vs7vo8KaZCvr7Wha7hfD-qGI0i4-EJxajZxcvt0EGMbFs0hqUCgrIPODdYjF4gOh0Erc8iE9i3p_8zcQgEX1nTBHzO7W3b3ZXtJPRg8yOfAlFAE/s400/IMG_0168.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227858555283651602" border="0" /></a>A video of Enni topping out on Right Wing.<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dx_YY1fRVZpKPHYHx4TJoTO_LO5DCUhZWEbXdoVfyFEx-PSdxA3zIc96ddvvQ5GljJZCWotyDxjotLJ8U_dsw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-63855225223193314752007-08-30T13:51:00.001-07:002008-11-13T11:30:15.473-08:00Grades Confirmed<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCOH-wXnfNhO4y9vKVWQ3tCwdIpsD598gQ5FCKzqb57VQDaSwUaUOdgKDaPRK3CB90zbXrqwbSZKF7oRqwnx35TEHf-WeUwKVkwYY6B1hUdnmk6biN_PIPZHPzpVaIay8UK2PhXwnD8vo/s1600-h/Right+Wing+Topo.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCOH-wXnfNhO4y9vKVWQ3tCwdIpsD598gQ5FCKzqb57VQDaSwUaUOdgKDaPRK3CB90zbXrqwbSZKF7oRqwnx35TEHf-WeUwKVkwYY6B1hUdnmk6biN_PIPZHPzpVaIay8UK2PhXwnD8vo/s400/Right+Wing+Topo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5104599797559676642" border="0" /></a><br />I climbed Right Wing (again) with Katherine and Julie. Katherine impressively on-sighted the Filibuster over the course of an hour-long battle. I know that Katy Holm onsighted it several months back. Anyways, with all the activity, I think that the grades have finally settled as 10c for the bolted pitch, 10d for the Filibuster, and 10d for What's Left. Here's the topo.<br /><br />The Filibuster was entirely dry and much cleaner than it was in the spring. All the traffic knocked off the grit on the right face, making smearing much more secure.Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-39407420803358073152007-07-05T21:46:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:15.893-08:00In Action<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFKUZQgCw4vjgN6cU0PBfdRvMBHJGO2TfupCFA3EU0Fo1nAvl0vYZ4QDjI86s79jvc6Jmx9Z1CpT1p8ya3ZEJR5ZH2DsTD_Ki2-l3Hl2cYeK9ox3h6k31PaC0nJfF8WaTR55H53bB6yJk/s1600-h/P7050074.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFKUZQgCw4vjgN6cU0PBfdRvMBHJGO2TfupCFA3EU0Fo1nAvl0vYZ4QDjI86s79jvc6Jmx9Z1CpT1p8ya3ZEJR5ZH2DsTD_Ki2-l3Hl2cYeK9ox3h6k31PaC0nJfF8WaTR55H53bB6yJk/s320/P7050074.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083941716004376226" border="0" /></a><br />My friends Katy and Kelly went up on Right Wing yesterday; they thought that it was a great route. Comparing notes, it's much drier now (still not perfectly dry though) and cleaner... it's been seeing some traffic. They suggested the grades of 10c for the bolted pitch, 10d for the Filibuster, and 10c for What's Left. I went up today to try it but some folks from Seattle were on it. Here are some photos of them as I rapped down to inspect. They seemed to like it but also had to say that the Filibuster is full on and not the type of terrain for a 5.10 leader. It's a Buster of a 10d for sure.<br /><br /><-- Here's the mighty Filibuster! She hollered over to me "Exasperator's second pitch is 10c. This ain't 10c!" That's right, it's 10d. <br /><br /><br />Below left: Looking up at "What's Left". Note the rope hanging vertically down. <br /><br /><br />Below right: meat and potato handjamming on Right Wing.<br /><br /> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqleqRfwVP6ERE9HjLlcwjIhWECKVe83QfTdrd93SG71o3WlYMMJTBWzgoWLEd4BdanIDrv3QmRQtlKDcDV4lriC3z8LXCpLI_HA2igU9zANSE02rfGCwnikBY8JJvGxYM7ubU27oMe4s/s1600-h/P7050076.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqleqRfwVP6ERE9HjLlcwjIhWECKVe83QfTdrd93SG71o3WlYMMJTBWzgoWLEd4BdanIDrv3QmRQtlKDcDV4lriC3z8LXCpLI_HA2igU9zANSE02rfGCwnikBY8JJvGxYM7ubU27oMe4s/s320/P7050076.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083942454738751202" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4m7F3ik5VK_amfOby8vqEyAplDO7Lf0fAZBF_L-jPQM5Jc5d1N0LeDn_S8-GDEartJOevRxXW2mPm958X4B0QnmhMvdar-Fo66YFSIysoHpA6oZYd5fU069yxj9vICq7hDo0yhEO47yc/s1600-h/P7050073.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4m7F3ik5VK_amfOby8vqEyAplDO7Lf0fAZBF_L-jPQM5Jc5d1N0LeDn_S8-GDEartJOevRxXW2mPm958X4B0QnmhMvdar-Fo66YFSIysoHpA6oZYd5fU069yxj9vICq7hDo0yhEO47yc/s320/P7050073.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5083941879213133490" border="0" /></a>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-71558564703350806502007-05-28T15:11:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:15.990-08:00Updated Topo<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Jc1iI6NGhcBmQxy-ZBWO0bRk_ASLux23EjeLxMbhtkoOtMqke83Ww3WCU1hQ6uy7XS0RsA3pfu4zuZWAj_N3hxuHv-ZcHZGji87dwASuLIpIaJWdkj5R_pqN0PWJv4FD8UtDmdExVP0/s1600-h/Right+Wing.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Jc1iI6NGhcBmQxy-ZBWO0bRk_ASLux23EjeLxMbhtkoOtMqke83Ww3WCU1hQ6uy7XS0RsA3pfu4zuZWAj_N3hxuHv-ZcHZGji87dwASuLIpIaJWdkj5R_pqN0PWJv4FD8UtDmdExVP0/s400/Right+Wing.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5069737915525681362" border="0" /></a><br />In light of my recent adventure on Right Wing (see "Served" next), I'm posting an updated and more tentative topo. The grades are unconfirmed and suggest a range, somewhere in which the true grade exists. If you climb the thing and have any comments, please respond to this message or get in touch with me with comments/suggestions: jeremyfrimer(at)gmail.comJeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-34782249864111359862007-05-18T09:22:00.000-07:002007-05-18T09:34:14.584-07:00Served!I finally found an opportunity to climb Right Wing yesterday, with my friend Jacqui. Let me start with the most important point: Oh My Goodness! P2, the bolted corner, was wet but the water wasn't a big deal. Jacqui did some mix free and aid past the bolts (+ a blue metolius) and found it to be a pitch easily frigged. I followed it and found the moves to be in the 10b/c range with the exception of the move past the 3rd bolt, which may be harder.<br /><br />Then the "Filibuster". To put it simply, I got served.<br /><br />Even after 2 weeks of dry weather, the bottom 15 m were wet. I suspect that snow melt run-off is a problem for this route. The climbing was unrelenting in the mid-10 range. Get a piece in, suss the moves, layback for 10 feet, NO REST, look for gear while hanging onto a 5.10 move, repeat. Then the squeeze chimney, then the steep hands. Then 40m up from the belay, even with a set of doubles and even triples in some sizes of cams, I was out of gear. I built a hanging belay and brought Jacqui up. The last 20m to the chains were easier (5.9/10a) but required the same sort of gear that I needed below so I'm happy with my decision to break it up.<br /><br />"What's Left". Holy moly! A 15m corner that overhangs 3m. Getting up to the flake has a tricky/burly move or two. But then the flake: stuff in the 4.5, undercling up, kneebar, reach for the top, pull up, then throw a leg over it and straddle. Once back in the corner, a #5 camalot will then go in. But in the midst of all this monkey business, there's no gear to speak of. The final moves to the chains are burly too (overhung laybacking).<br /><br />Take-away messages:<br />(1) Wetness is a problem in spring;<br />(2) The Filibuster is a pitch perhaps unparalleled in Squamish in the 5.10 range. The closest analogue is probably the 5.11a final pitch to the Truck Stop on Freeway.<br />(3) I'm not ready to confirm the grades of any of the pitches on Right Wing. I believe that the ones posted on the topo (they are the historic grades) may be sandbagged. I await feedback on that.Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-19457514941800234312007-04-12T06:24:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:16.126-08:00Right Wing is Now Clean<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DIxvuS7qSyg8Aq8Op0jvOHZbUf9Y-lalhi29CZmon9ick9YXg0F92FLbGAzOn4CvYaAdi4iPYx6t98GAjwd5r4Dz3WhZ9AdZrr6leNv3vngM0cOGEQkaMjfmEhnib9mHTFMMUNGAmw4/s1600-h/Right+Wing+Topo.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DIxvuS7qSyg8Aq8Op0jvOHZbUf9Y-lalhi29CZmon9ick9YXg0F92FLbGAzOn4CvYaAdi4iPYx6t98GAjwd5r4Dz3WhZ9AdZrr6leNv3vngM0cOGEQkaMjfmEhnib9mHTFMMUNGAmw4/s320/Right+Wing+Topo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5052532688411521026" border="0" /></a><br />With some final scrubbing, belay bolting, and pin/bolt/flake removal, Right Wing is clean once again. Here's a topo of the route. Keep in mind that it is slow to dry. But once it is, wow! From the first pitch (Eagle's Domain), one can see the entire climb---every single metre. It's an intimidating and exciting moment looking up at the never-ending Filibuster corner. Enjoy!Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-53791262643749767962007-04-08T22:13:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:16.492-08:00Scrubbing Granite<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpoDw4B07uRSJmSXubzFabdIykBR-NCAZFOLq3uUvL6-daID2Xb2H12UC7XfOFOpkg3hrEa7_pKxTx1hVOe6E5ZB4AujqVcGE3TvWun3eOgXXUWNLEytYkDDDYBvxWNC2Y_smlocySpuI/s1600-h/Scrubber.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpoDw4B07uRSJmSXubzFabdIykBR-NCAZFOLq3uUvL6-daID2Xb2H12UC7XfOFOpkg3hrEa7_pKxTx1hVOe6E5ZB4AujqVcGE3TvWun3eOgXXUWNLEytYkDDDYBvxWNC2Y_smlocySpuI/s320/Scrubber.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5051443603841904130" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A couple of weekends ago, here's a photo that Jacqui took of Sarah going at the lichen. I'm standing down below, working on unearthing Political Ledge.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3yopkoqSdXzgxBrVjldauhhjIAB8clOwKR05Lub96hlqmcZBpuU0tl_lyNKkxnWf-Eybn7yUctx2GRFyHTXL7p_sxl-H2wkaMMeWArPUmU_3Z-MXwo7VRcSOgOjxai_Aa7jvIlGlgOck/s1600-h/Sarah+and+Jer.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3yopkoqSdXzgxBrVjldauhhjIAB8clOwKR05Lub96hlqmcZBpuU0tl_lyNKkxnWf-Eybn7yUctx2GRFyHTXL7p_sxl-H2wkaMMeWArPUmU_3Z-MXwo7VRcSOgOjxai_Aa7jvIlGlgOck/s320/Sarah+and+Jer.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5051443191525043682" border="0" /></a>As of right now, all of the climbing is clean. What remains is an 8m section of ledge to be scrubbed, a bolted anchor to be placed, and a big nasty flake to be sledgehammered out of the Filibuster corner. And that's it.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0RlBxtjtqe2CYZnA9ejYymlGU_33iSa4b4zvmMymhRp61393FRPKiw8-RJHyv07cDYaUNyY_qoZMKLZwv5LtkfUvyLm9E9GaTqPvPcOTr_gyTBmAmluc8EQMfogYnF9V6UZkCiFLWeu8/s1600-h/Sarah+on+Political+Ledge.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0RlBxtjtqe2CYZnA9ejYymlGU_33iSa4b4zvmMymhRp61393FRPKiw8-RJHyv07cDYaUNyY_qoZMKLZwv5LtkfUvyLm9E9GaTqPvPcOTr_gyTBmAmluc8EQMfogYnF9V6UZkCiFLWeu8/s320/Sarah+on+Political+Ledge.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5051443316079095282" border="0" /></a>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-21812841748963100292007-04-08T21:54:00.000-07:002007-04-08T22:03:19.489-07:00The First Ascent, 1967I've been chatting with Fred Beckey about the first ascent. This is what he could remember offhand:<br /><blockquote>Frankly it is sort of a blur... I remember that there was some aid and the route was sort of strenuous and on the warm side when we climbed it. Cannot even recall if we scouted it first or went up and worked on it with ropes. </blockquote>It's understandable that he'd have little recollection of it given that it in 2 months, it will be 40 years since the FA and that Fred is well into his 80's now. He suggested that I check the journals. And indeed in AAJ 1968, there it was:<br /> <p class="MsoNormal"><i style=""></i></p><blockquote><div style="text-align: center;"> </div><p style="text-align: left;" class="MsoNormal"><i style="">Squamish Squaw, <st1:street st="on"><st1:address st="on">Right Wing Route</st1:address></st1:Street></i>. On June 24 and 25 Scott Davis, Al Givler and I made the first ascent of the Squaw via the crack system running through the main dihedral on the west face. Our first problem was locating the beginning of the dihedral at the head of the steep jungle growing against the Squaw lower cliffs. Once found, we climbed three pitches directly upward, where the difficulty increased from fourth class to aid. From a spacious belay ledge two long aid pitches, separated only by a hanging belay, curved upward and right. Pitoning was always awkward and slow, as we were forced right by the overhanging left wall of the dihedral. A final vertical and overhanging pitch, again largely aid, proved an awkward if not fitting end to a classic route. We used 67 pitons, two bolts were placed at and above the hanging belay.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;" align="right"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Fred Beckey</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p></blockquote>Sounds to me like (1) Right Wing was the FA of the entire Squaw; (2) They followed one of the bushy cracks near Eagle's Domain rather than Eagle's Domain itself; (3) There was a lot of awkward "pitoning"; (4) Let the Legend that is Fred Beckey be an inspiration to us all.Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-51859305930177198262007-03-30T12:40:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:16.642-08:00The Vision<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ2sDr_rzpL7sn8ep_UkoxDVANhCF5gwBiY_si8rg5UeKSJLUarsoMyR6Cf8U-0muiTDwe_62fG6wPiM_Ob0AtchRmX7Bcnz58c4BBflGlPPLZyxvglOSp1CtqSTnurlV7-YiYy7R8EEQ/s1600-h/Right+Wing.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ2sDr_rzpL7sn8ep_UkoxDVANhCF5gwBiY_si8rg5UeKSJLUarsoMyR6Cf8U-0muiTDwe_62fG6wPiM_Ob0AtchRmX7Bcnz58c4BBflGlPPLZyxvglOSp1CtqSTnurlV7-YiYy7R8EEQ/s320/Right+Wing.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046114322507803010" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: left;">"The Squaw" is a 180m high rock crag in Squamish that hosts perhaps the densest collection of multipitch 5.10 crack climbs in Squamish with Jungle Warfare (10a), Birds of Prey (10b), Optimus Prime (10c), The Great Game (10d), Pipeline (10c), and Godforsaken Land (10d, AO). But when looking at the crag from the town of Squamish, I've often noticed that the most obvious feature---a 65m long right-facing corner---is off the charts. The corner belongs to the somewhat forgotten and vegetated "Right Wing" (10c-ish). With heavy praise for the potential of the route (if it were only cleaned up) in the Squamish guide, I decided to take on the project this winter. Along with some of my friends, I've set out to clean the thing up, with hopes of reintroducing what I think will become an excellent addition to Squamish climbing.<br /></div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-77348035921669814002007-03-30T12:32:00.000-07:002007-03-30T12:48:10.838-07:00The Story of the Core Shot (or how Right Wing Almost Killed Me)Before I selectively forget what happened when Right Wing nearly killed me, I better write it down. I write it here because there are practical lessons to learn about rope fixing, wet ropes, grigris, and how they can interact in a bad way.<br /><br />In November, I spent a day cleaning all the big, loose rocks on the route. While working on the long 10b corner, I noticed that the ropes were drenched and that my grigri was difficult to control. I would pull and pull on the release to no avail until finally it lost grip entirely and I would fly down the rope for 10 feet before stopping abruptly, and bounce to a stop. After bouncing my way down the rope, I jumarred back up, cleaning loose rocks, until I came over a bulge to notice that the sheath of the rope 20 feet above me was kapput and the sheath below the shot had slid down a foot or two. Upon later inspection (I just ruined the end of the story by letting on that I didn't die), it turned out that the core was in decent shape and showing only minor abrasion. But still. The core shot came from the rubbing against the most subtle of bulges---virtually flat granite. Think of a ball 60 feet in diameter. There was scarcely a crystal poking out of it. That's what's most scary about the incident: the lack of a cutting edge. The problem was that I had such a long section fixed (70m) with dynamic ropes and without an intermittent anchor. My repeated bouncing expressed itself as sawing action at the point in question. I've since built an intermittent anchor and installed a second (back-up) rope. Future cleaners, take heed.Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-11665670985643165942007-03-27T08:29:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:16.973-08:00Bolting<div style="text-align: left;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HNSs256J8xPwFZx16sHTElQ0RhWWpgVB8kAGMCInR5-vsDaHTQS4Ql4eJl0o-K3evoC-tgsSmK0Rcu4n4hM8H8OcQvL2KHNPpfZB9D67jPshyGE0W_fNm2B6457A4FMnctMa3SseLu4/s1600-h/P2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HNSs256J8xPwFZx16sHTElQ0RhWWpgVB8kAGMCInR5-vsDaHTQS4Ql4eJl0o-K3evoC-tgsSmK0Rcu4n4hM8H8OcQvL2KHNPpfZB9D67jPshyGE0W_fNm2B6457A4FMnctMa3SseLu4/s320/P2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046635009018041186" border="0" /></a>I did most of the bolting yesterday. In a sense, I'm glad that I was alone for it in that reaching consensus between any two individuals about if and where to bolt is difficult. In the end, I decided to put in fixed stations throughout. I won't justify that decision here. What does seem worthy of mention is how I handled P2, the short, wet 10c corner. The pitch begins by stepping off a ledge, across the wet streak onto a series of moves off of good holds, bad feet, and big moves between them. All the while, the wet streak looms closely nearby. The photo at right shows the pitch. The yellow circles (x for bolt and P for pin) show what was there when I arrived. After trying the moves out myself and giving it a good think, I decided put in two new bolts beside the wet streak. The lowest bolt is there because the original move across the wet streak has a pretty nasty ankle-breaker potential (thanks Chris Geisler for letting me know about the deckfall potential on this pitch). Once onto the face, if it's dry enough, it's now well protected for some pretty tenuous moves. And if it's wet, it's an easy A0 bolt ladder. After talking with Don McPherson (FFA) and others, I got the sense that this pitch was a little too memorable (as in scary) considering how short and <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNT9vbOb_SO7srbbliJbVCo4CQ_wGiYDnG-NbgGubRwxaYwEEKe-_x22e5vLTNJczd_s8kHS-t6H5kSBshGSex0rWsxBUxSkCqKa0bqzZAPQejhIAR9IuNOaF5vkl6s1p_xBRtr4zQ7Tg/s1600-h/pitons.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNT9vbOb_SO7srbbliJbVCo4CQ_wGiYDnG-NbgGubRwxaYwEEKe-_x22e5vLTNJczd_s8kHS-t6H5kSBshGSex0rWsxBUxSkCqKa0bqzZAPQejhIAR9IuNOaF5vkl6s1p_xBRtr4zQ7Tg/s320/pitons.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046638247423382386" border="0" /></a>wet it is. My goal as was to make it more forgettable, as it is not what makes Right Wing great. I put in a final bolt at the top as there was no decent gear. The pitch is now all fixed. In the end, it as a 1-for-1 pin-for bolt swap. I pulled the pins. The angle was a good piece albeit erroded substantially; the baby knifeblade was half-driven, and the z piton was only 1/4 driven.</div>Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-28672830423553746372007-03-26T07:38:00.000-07:002007-03-27T09:10:09.067-07:00Almost doneYesterday, Sarah, Jacqui, and I spent the day cleaning and the route is nearly ready to go. Just 20m of rock in need of cleaning. And bolting. After much deliberation, I've decided to make all the stations fixed and to place 3 new bolts in the 10c-ish pitch. The new bolts in that pitch will both allow me to pull out the existing, rusted, half-driven pins, and for the route to climb some interesting face beside the wet streak, making the wet streak less of an issue. The crack adjacent to where the bolts will be is slammed shut anyways: most of the time, too small for fingers or anything more than knifeblades.Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-882441440620692011.post-7126932577848970902007-03-25T22:45:00.000-07:002008-11-13T11:30:18.000-08:00Pre-Cleaning<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYtnR_J44hJvtSEcuRSIGAnlEWSlnFZ-kkDpPdlx_rJwORH-V6UZA47qUwrqhhoceXYD38mI5AhnppbQUNooQBWKh_rvQnHBlX-GlztpOJUlQhfEqa-TPF_3Ljf6X1zR7pVUDbXPyna4/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-7.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYtnR_J44hJvtSEcuRSIGAnlEWSlnFZ-kkDpPdlx_rJwORH-V6UZA47qUwrqhhoceXYD38mI5AhnppbQUNooQBWKh_rvQnHBlX-GlztpOJUlQhfEqa-TPF_3Ljf6X1zR7pVUDbXPyna4/s320/Right+Wing+0-7.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046121349074299442" border="0" /></a><br />Here are some photos from the day that I first fixed ropes on Right Wing with Anders Ourum.<br /><br />Pitch 4: The climb will finish up the original finish to The Great Game, an overhanging 10b corner (The Beak Flake). Here's looking down it. Yup, looks full on.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyMHHc9-MUJwDfB_W0MZMNakMnct3tQ8BE2Ety26LFDunTQxt4JLVTUbHQuY5YzNGeboJpUrBqVu4jrHDHhA2OEm-eN94GxXQDW-fqjRLDZNqKnqafQc_unHMixhR7pt7Nf9I09sfBSpk/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-12.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyMHHc9-MUJwDfB_W0MZMNakMnct3tQ8BE2Ety26LFDunTQxt4JLVTUbHQuY5YzNGeboJpUrBqVu4jrHDHhA2OEm-eN94GxXQDW-fqjRLDZNqKnqafQc_unHMixhR7pt7Nf9I09sfBSpk/s320/Right+Wing+0-12.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046118376956930482" border="0" /></a>Pitch 3: The next pitch down will probably be the one that gives Right Wing it's name (whatever name that ends up being): a full 60m rope-stretcher of 5.10 climbing. Plenty of chimneying and powerful climbing, and not a good rest on the entire thing. The belay is the first stance in 60m. Excellent cracks, fantastic gear, and stomach turning exposure. Here's a photo looking down it (note the ledge way down there, marking its beginning).<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtOw9WLP4Ek4hZKXmcE_M1HUczoP3sIPVs-jF4DkyN1k7JZb7lHJZP-DXqoASopXXGpVRTM8Wm3XaojnpjzoQnWlGmsAERzRep3AaICU9aW5P2IVO7bYdiuvaEaJmY5QCxM65CuYpcpqE/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-27.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtOw9WLP4Ek4hZKXmcE_M1HUczoP3sIPVs-jF4DkyN1k7JZb7lHJZP-DXqoASopXXGpVRTM8Wm3XaojnpjzoQnWlGmsAERzRep3AaICU9aW5P2IVO7bYdiuvaEaJmY5QCxM65CuYpcpqE/s320/Right+Wing+0-27.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046118896647973314" border="0" /></a>Pitch 3: Here's looking down the lower half of the pitch.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NoAEpLTlpoGMDUSeKJ-hgeF-ORV65HZ_qtxWcWA2i3uJdo7E4kIbIOkVfAvwvk7Dh6TKCMCQoAsp6zo-0QGA9waW5ddrrNCBD2uBSMRpKgxOhwOdK3sRLXpNG72_4_INxV_dw2sU1Zk/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-35.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NoAEpLTlpoGMDUSeKJ-hgeF-ORV65HZ_qtxWcWA2i3uJdo7E4kIbIOkVfAvwvk7Dh6TKCMCQoAsp6zo-0QGA9waW5ddrrNCBD2uBSMRpKgxOhwOdK3sRLXpNG72_4_INxV_dw2sU1Zk/s320/Right+Wing+0-35.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046119321849735634" border="0" /></a>Pitch 3: The lowest 10m of the mega pitch, properly vegetated, with the belay ledge below.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR-hNt127NeA6Z0vtf4Ub19n2gkh9ckDkrVPd4B1BM2O8z2PlI9cKrsEeAw8FrjeRlqJf4MGdHa8suXMvS3t6fVYgZK48q1jhh7DrGXvaAoRxxJdT0HwRMdqXlQkHXFCRYoAQswgILlM/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-36.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR-hNt127NeA6Z0vtf4Ub19n2gkh9ckDkrVPd4B1BM2O8z2PlI9cKrsEeAw8FrjeRlqJf4MGdHa8suXMvS3t6fVYgZK48q1jhh7DrGXvaAoRxxJdT0HwRMdqXlQkHXFCRYoAQswgILlM/s320/Right+Wing+0-36.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046119596727642594" border="0" /></a>Pitch 3: Panicing yet? Looking up the mega pitch from the belay ledge. The belay at its top (not visible) is located at the base of the corner visible on the skyline. Bring all the gear you own, and your friends' too.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXLDnpWykzW0nTTVVsEWaCfJaPzBVBWgJTDJw0W8myNoq123vNu9FHmHwLTQivX-jGEorkoefSwDm-iakFbupG-qUCBk9YdjTrxIsub3Zy_jzET21xJhq0zVUEzx-F83V3KEcAuQOFt4g/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-45.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXLDnpWykzW0nTTVVsEWaCfJaPzBVBWgJTDJw0W8myNoq123vNu9FHmHwLTQivX-jGEorkoefSwDm-iakFbupG-qUCBk9YdjTrxIsub3Zy_jzET21xJhq0zVUEzx-F83V3KEcAuQOFt4g/s320/Right+Wing+0-45.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046120176548227570" border="0" /></a>Pitch 2: Looking up the short 10c-ish pitch. Note the unfortunately permanent wet streak. The climb will step across the streak to some good face holds (dry) before re-joining the corner at the top of the wet streak.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM2_D1_At1SSrLUr__DkYmWUlkIygsriucdRVNgTUI8Go_vxkwfzRtJVWXgu1LmqQ4UrPzVsqDR_fUnR85Y6n2X80d_ky5k_v8cvY34RmY5oebk5vDQhREppBng-n973aUIWUxUrjnU_Y/s1600-h/Right+Wing+0-42.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM2_D1_At1SSrLUr__DkYmWUlkIygsriucdRVNgTUI8Go_vxkwfzRtJVWXgu1LmqQ4UrPzVsqDR_fUnR85Y6n2X80d_ky5k_v8cvY34RmY5oebk5vDQhREppBng-n973aUIWUxUrjnU_Y/s320/Right+Wing+0-42.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5046120657584564770" border="0" /></a>Pitch 1: The connection with Eagle's Domain (the white finger crack in the slab behind the climber).Jeremy Frimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12771410840353057571noreply@blogger.com0