Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Bolting

I did most of the bolting yesterday. In a sense, I'm glad that I was alone for it in that reaching consensus between any two individuals about if and where to bolt is difficult. In the end, I decided to put in fixed stations throughout. I won't justify that decision here. What does seem worthy of mention is how I handled P2, the short, wet 10c corner. The pitch begins by stepping off a ledge, across the wet streak onto a series of moves off of good holds, bad feet, and big moves between them. All the while, the wet streak looms closely nearby. The photo at right shows the pitch. The yellow circles (x for bolt and P for pin) show what was there when I arrived. After trying the moves out myself and giving it a good think, I decided put in two new bolts beside the wet streak. The lowest bolt is there because the original move across the wet streak has a pretty nasty ankle-breaker potential (thanks Chris Geisler for letting me know about the deckfall potential on this pitch). Once onto the face, if it's dry enough, it's now well protected for some pretty tenuous moves. And if it's wet, it's an easy A0 bolt ladder. After talking with Don McPherson (FFA) and others, I got the sense that this pitch was a little too memorable (as in scary) considering how short and wet it is. My goal as was to make it more forgettable, as it is not what makes Right Wing great. I put in a final bolt at the top as there was no decent gear. The pitch is now all fixed. In the end, it as a 1-for-1 pin-for bolt swap. I pulled the pins. The angle was a good piece albeit erroded substantially; the baby knifeblade was half-driven, and the z piton was only 1/4 driven.

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