Sunday, July 27, 2008

Third Time Still Unlucky

I tried Right Wing for the third time recently with Sarah. Our Finnish friends, Pauli and Enni, followed close behind us.

Finally, I sent Pitch 2, the bolted 10c corner. After balancing up past delicate features, a critical step left into a stem, a wet finger lock layback move, and a dash of commitment awarded me the jug that ends the crux!

But then the Filibuster had its way with Sarah and me. Sarah, fresh back from flashing a 12a in Canmore, tried to lead the "just 10d" Filibuster. Grunting, quivering, pulling, hanging, she got about 20m up before running out of steam and courage, and built a hanging belay at a place where someone had bailed. I took over, with 38 m left to the chains, and a head full of steam. Getting into the chimney proved challenging, with Sarah belaying exactly where I would fall. Once in, the steep handcracks went well... but with much effort. Alas, by the time I had laybacked up another 10m of the corner, I was well out of steam. I went piece to piece the rest of the way to the chains.

Sarah then led the 10c/d fingery finale to Godforsaken Land, which didn't go too smoothly either. Like What's Left, the finish to GFL is burly!

Here are some photos of Super Enni leading the end of the Filibuster (she pulled on one piece to give a "*" to her onsight) and the end of What's Left (which she did onsight). Also be sure to check out the video of her topping out, gassed. The end of the never-ending Filibuster

the kneebar, undercling, crux reach move on the well-overhung What's Left
A video of Enni topping out on Right Wing.