I climbed Right Wing (again) with Katherine and Julie. Katherine impressively on-sighted the Filibuster over the course of an hour-long battle. I know that Katy Holm onsighted it several months back. Anyways, with all the activity, I think that the grades have finally settled as 10c for the bolted pitch, 10d for the Filibuster, and 10d for What's Left. Here's the topo.
The Filibuster was entirely dry and much cleaner than it was in the spring. All the traffic knocked off the grit on the right face, making smearing much more secure.
2 comments:
Jeremy:
Thanks for recleaning the route. Climbed it Sept 11th - had the Squaw to ourselves. A 70m cord gets from the bottom to the start of the bolted pitch. The damp spots on the 2nd pitch were easily avoided. Sabrina elected to carry on and belayed from the hanging belay setup after adding a couple of cams to the fixed nut belay. I carried on up to the base of the What's Left pitch. Sabrina led up and after 3 spectacular peelers off the beak swapped rope ends and I finished up
Hadn't been on the route before but the Filibuster pitch is a gem. How many of the bolts on p2 are new? Did you try to climb it with gear only?
Grades seem about right to me - people will bicker about 'em regardless.
Kudos to you.
Eric Angus
Hey Eric,
Glad to hear that you enjoyed it. The fixed nuts of the "fixed nut" belay in the Filibuster is new. I climbed it 2 weeks ago and they weren't there then. Yeah, What's Left is a major ass-kicker for sure. What a burl-fest.
Answering your questions: I added 3 bolts to p2. The bolt that's in (or nearest) the wet streak was already there. In the corner adjacent to each bolt was a half-driven, rusty pin. I didn't try to climb it on only gear, on purpose. I believe that both Andy Cairns and Chris Geisler led that pitch in its previous state and they had nothing good to say about the experience.
All the best,
Jeremy
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