Monday, August 15, 2011

Session 4

Went for a wander today... rapped in and gave pitch 5 another burn, envisioning what it would be like placing gear, a welling pump in the arms. I ticked all the feet. I never thought I'd do that. But this is projecting. Left a "H" on the face beside blind handjam rests. I can just see myself on lead, pumped, too pumped to stop and place gear, looking up at an "H" on the face 10 feet up... and going "H" or bust.

I can TR the pitch clean every time. But stopping to place gear will make it much tougher. I now know where the cruxes are for me, where to rest, where to place gear, and where to punch through. That said, it's still really pumpy. Power endurance!

I also fixed up a rap route from Political Ledge to the ground, in 3 raps with a single 60m rope. So the route is pretty low commitment now. Easy to bail if need be.

JB says tomorrow's the day for the big send.

1 comment:

Nick de Kam said...

Will these chalk marks be removed soon? I plan on climbing this on the weekend, and will be pretty upset if it is marked at all. As if the bolted anchor half way up wasn't enough.